Acacia senegal. An herb that can have anti-inflammatory properties but is primarily a thickening agent. See   gums.

acetic acid. An acid found in vinegar, some fruits, and human sweat. It can be a potent skin irritant and drying to skin, though it also has disinfecting properties.

acetone. A strong solvent that removes nail polish.

acetyl glucosamine. An amino acid sugar and the primary constituent of mucopolysaccharides and hyaluronic acid. It is an agent that has good water-binding properties for skin. In large concentrations it can be effective for wound healing. There is research (Cellular-Molecular-Life-Science, 1997 Feb; 53(2): 131–40) showing that chitins (chitosan—which is comprised of acetyl glucosamine) can help wound healing in a complex process. That is a few generations removed from the tiny amount of acetyl glucosamine being used in cosmetics, and wrinkles are not related to wounds.

acetylated lanolin. An emollient derived from lanolin. Considered to be less of an allergen than pure lanolin.

Acetyl hexapeptide-3 ,The trade name is Argirline.Argireline works through aunique mechanism which relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial muscles or lines and wrinkles with regular use .Argireline has been shown to moderate exessive catecholamines release .Argireline is aboundantly available in human body,naturaly .There are two trade names in the market .Age-X cream & Argireline Cream .This element had been presented to the 20th Congress of Dermatologists in Paris ,July 2003 .

acid. Anything with a pH lower than 7—above 7 is alkaline. Water has a pH of 7. Skin has an average pH of 5.5.

active ingredients. The part of an ingredient label regulated by the FDA. The amount and exact function of each active ingredient is controlled and must be approved by the FDA. Active ingredients include such substances as sunscreen ingredients, skin lightening agents, and benzoyl peroxide.

Aesculus hippocastanum.  See   horse chestnut.

age spot. There is no such thing as an "age spot." The skin can develop brown patches for many reasons, but the small characteristic ones on the hands, arms, and face are caused by sun damage. These are possibly indications of precancerous conditions and should be watched carefully for changes.

AHAs. Ingredients extracted from various plant sources or milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) these work as water-binding agents. At over 4% and in a pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin friendly AHAs may irritate. mucous membranes and cause irritation.  See   also BHA.

albumin. Found in egg white and can leave a film overskin.                                            

Alchemilla vulgaris. Constricts skin which can cause irritation.

alcloxa. More technically known as aluminum chlorhydroxy allantoinate. It has constricting properties that can be irritating for skin.

alcohol. Organic compounds that have a vast range of forms and uses in cosmetics. In some benign forms they are glycols used as humectants and help deliver ingredients into skin. When fats and oils (see fatty acids) are chemically reduced, they become a group of less-dense alcohols called fatty alcohols that can have emollient properties or become detergent cleansing agents. When alcohols have low molecular weights they can be drying and irritating. The alcohols to be concerned about in skin-care products are ethanol, denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol. These can be extremely drying and irritating to skin.

alfalfa extract. Can be an antioxidant in skin-care products.

algae. Very simple chlorophyll-containing organisms with more than 20,000 different known species. A variety of algae are used in cosmetics as thickening agents, water-binding agents, and antioxidants.

alginic acid. Obtained by treating dry seaweed with acid to create a very thick, gelatin-like substance. It is used as a thickening agent in cosmetics.

aliphatic hydrocarbon from . A hydrocarbon contained in natural gas and mineral oils. It is a synthetic fluid with varying properties that range solvent to slip agent.  See   solvent and slip agents.

alkaline. Anything with a pH higher than 7—above 7 is alkaline. Water has a pH of 7. Skin has an average pH of 5.5.

alkyloamides. Identified on skin-care labels as DEA and MEA. These are used primarily for their foaming ability in shampoos, but they can also be used as thickening or binding agents. Because alkyloamides contain a free amine that can combine with specific types of preservatives in cosmetics, there is concern that they may form carcinogens.

allantoin. A by-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective anti-irritant.

all-trans-retinoic acid.  See   Retin-A.

almond oil PEG-6 esters.  See   glyceryl esters.

almond oil. An oil extracted from the seeds of almonds and used as an emollient.

aloe extract  See   aloe vera.    See    

alpha hydroxy acid.  See   AHAs.

alpha lipoic acid. An enzyme that applied topically on skin can be a very good antioxidant.

aluminum chlorohydrate. A salt used in antiperspirant preparations. It can be extremely irritating on abraded skin.

aluminum magnesium silicate.  See   kaolin.

aluminum starch (octenylsuccinate). A powdery thickening agent and absorbent that can be a skin irritant and cause contact dermatitis.

amino acids. Proteins are comprised of amino acids. In skin-care products, these types of ingredients, of which there are many, work as water-binding agents.  See   also protein.

aminobutyric acid. An amino acid that has water-binding properties for skin and may be an anti-inflammatory. It supposedly also increases growth hormone when taken orally, but the only support for this is a single obscure study that was conducted more than two decades ago in fewer than 20 subjects, and the results have yet to be replicated by other scientists.

aminomethyl propanediol. Used to adjust pH in cosmetics.

ammonium chloride. An alkaline salt used as a pH balancer in skin-care products; it is not used in concentrations that would be problematic for skin.

ammonium laureth sulfate. Can be derived from coconut; it is used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent and is considered to be gentle and effective.

ammonium lauryl sulfate. Can be derived from coconut; it is used primarily as a detergent cleansing agent and is considered to be gentle and effective.

amodimethicone.  See   silicone.

amyris oil.  See   sandalwood.

andiroba oil. Extracted from the Brazilian mahogany tree; it has anti-inflammatory properties.

angelica. A potential skin irritant, though it can have antibacterial properties on skin.

anise. Can have antibacterial properties, but its fragrant component makes this a potential skin irritant.

annato extract. A natural plant colourant derived from the flesh surrounding the seed of Bixa orellana, a shrub native to South America, producing yellow-orange tones.

Anthyllis vulneraria. A member of the legume family; can impart fragrance, and may also constrict the skin, which can cause irritation.

antibacterial. Any ingredient that destroys or inhibits the growth of bacteria, particularly in the case of those causing blemishes.

anti-inflammatory. Any ingredient that reduces certain signs of inflammation, such as swelling, tenderness, fever, and pain.

antioxidant. Any ingredient that can reduce the harmful effects of oxygen, sunlight, or other sources of free-radical cellular damage. However, there is no evidence that antioxidants can prevent wrinkling; their primary effect on skin seems to be their ability to reduce inflammation and irritation. Antioxidants include many plant extracts, vitamins, and synthetic ingredients.

aorta extract. Obtained from hearts of animals. It is supposed to have rejuvenating properties for skin, but this has never been proven in research of any kind. Much like any part of a human or animal body, the heart tissue is a source of proteins, amino acids, and other water-binding agents for skin.

apricot kernel oil. An emollient plant oil pressed from the seeds of apricots, and similar to other nonvolatile plant oils.

apricot kernel. A seed that, especially when finely ground, is a natural exfoliant.

arachidic acid. Derived from peanut oil and used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics.

arachidonic acid. Produced from phospholipids and fatty acids. There is research pointing to it being potentially unsafe when used topically, though more research is needed to decide this conclusively.

arachidyl alcohol. A waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics.

arachidyl propionate. A waxy substance used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetics.

Arachis hypogaea extract. Commonly known as the peanut. It can have emollient and anti-inflammatory properties for skin.

arbutin. A naturally occurring form of hydroquinone, which can suppress melanin production, though this has only been shown in vitro.

Arctium lappa.  See   burdock root.

arginine. An amino acid effective as a water-binding agent.

arnica extract. It is repeatedly stated in all of the herbal journals mentioned in the Appendix that arnica should not be applied to unbroken skin. The PDR Family Guide to Natural Medicines & Healing Therapies says: "Repeated contact with cosmetics containing arnica can cause itching, blisters, ulcers, and dead skin." It can increase blood flow to areas where it is applied.

arrowroot. A thickening agent; it has no known benefit for skin.

Artemesia vulgaris.  See   mugwort extract.

artichoke extract. Contains tannins that can constrict skin and cause irritation with repeated application.

Ascophyllum nodosum. A form of seaweed.  See   algae.

ascorbic acid. A form of vitamin C considered to be unstable in solution and that can also cause skin irritation.

ascorbyl palmitate. A form of vitamin C and considered a good antioxidant.  See    

asparagine. An amino acid.

aspartic acid. An amino acid.

Avena sativa. The oat plant; oat extract can have some anti-irritant properties.  See   also oatmeal.

avobenzone. Sunscreen ingredient that can protect against the entire range of UVA rays.

avocado oil. An emollient oil similar to other nonvolatile plant oils.

awapuhi. A plant from the ginger family; it can be a skin irritant.

azelaic acid. The active ingredient in a prescription drug called Azelex, and some over-the-counter products. It is often prescribed for acne due to its exfoliating and disinfecting properties and also for skin lightening. It is derived from Pityrosporum ovale, a form of yeast. It is considered a weak skin-lightening agent, though it can compare to hydroquinone when combined with high concentrations of glycolic acid.

azuki beans. Used as abrasives in scrub products.

azulene. A chamomile extract used primarily as a colouring agent in cosmetics.

TOP

babassu oil. A plant oil that can have emollient properties for skin.

Bacillus subtilis. A bacterium that is used as a fungicide on plants and has some medical benefits when taken orally, though there is no known benefit when applied to skin.

balm mint extract. A fragrant plant that poses some risk of irritation. It also has some reported antibacterial and antifungal properties. Claims that it can help heal wounds are not substantiated.

barium sulfate. An earth mineral used as a whitening agent in cosmetics. It can be a skin irritant.

bay leaf oil. Considered a potent skin irritant and should never be applied directly to skin.

bearberry extract. Has antibacterial properties for skin. It also contains arbutin. Arbutin can inhibit melanin production, though this has only been shown in vitro. However, the amounts of bearberry extract used in skin-care products are unlikely to affect skin or melanin.

bee pollen. Can be a good antioxidant, but there is no reported value for topical application.

beeswax. A substance made by bees to build the walls of their hives. It is a thickening agent and has some emollient properties.

behenic acid. A fatty acid used as a thickening agent and surfactant.

behenyl alcohol. A thickening agent used in cosmetics. It is not related to irritating forms of alcohol.

bentonite. A claylike material used as an absorbent in cosmetics. It can be drying and irritating to skin.

benzoic acid. A preservative used in skin-care products; it is considered to be less irritating than other forms of preservatives.

benzoin extract. A balsam resin that has some disinfecting and fragrant properties, and may be a skin irritant.

benzophenones. Used in cosmetics as sunscreen agents to protect mostly from UVB radiation.

benzothonium chloride. Used as a preservative in cosmetics. It is generally considered to be less irritating than other forms of preservatives.

benzoyl peroxide. An antibacterial agent primarily effective for killing the bacteria that cause blemishes. It can be drying or sensitizing for some skin types.

benzyl alcohol.  See   alcohol.

bergamot. A volatile oil extracted from the bergamot orange. It can have antibacterial properties, but is used primarily for fragrance and can be a skin irritant.  See   volatile oils.

beta glucan. Can be derived from yeast. It is a polysaccharide, meaning a sugar (such as starch and cellulose), and considered a good water-binding agent and antioxidant.

beta hydroxy acid.  See   salicylic acid.

beta-carotene. A potentially good antioxidant                                 

although recent research published in the Journal of the American Medical Association has called this into question.

Betula alba.  See   birch bark.

BHA. The abbreviation for butylated hydroxyanisole, a synthetic, potent antioxidant. BHA in this form should not be confused with beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid), an exfoliant. Salicylic acid is abbreviated as BHA but it would never be shown that way on an ingredient list.

BHT. Butylated hydroxytoluene, a synthetic, potent antioxidant.

 bacteria found

bifida ferment lysate. A in the digestive system. It has no known effect on skin.

bilberry extract. Can dilate blood vessels and potentially may cause surfaced capillaries to appear more noticeable. Some naturopathic medicine claims that when taken internally bilberry is supposed to strengthen capillary walls to prevent leakage, but this is not supported by research.

biotin. Part of the B-complex vitamins. It has no reported topical benefit for skin.

birch bark. Comes from the plant Betula alba, also called white birch. It can have astringent properties, which makes it a potential irritant for skin.

bisabolol. Can be derived synthetically or extracted from chamomile. It is an anti-irritant.

bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1.  See   glyceryl esters.

bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2.  See   glyceryl esters.

black pepper oil. Can cause inflammation and irritation to skin.

bladderwrack extract. Has a tightening, drying effect on skin and can be a skin irritant.

bloodroot. Is a potent skin irritant.

borage extract. Can have anti-irritant,

 anti-inflammatory properties.

borage oil. Can have anti-irritant properties.

 See   gamma linoleic acid.

borates. According to A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, 5th edition, boric acid is still being used despite warnings about toxicity and severe irritation.

boric acid. According to A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, 5th edition, boric acid is still being used despite warnings about toxicity from the American Medical Association.

boron nitride. An earth mineral that has antibacterial properties. It can also be a skin irritant.

Boswellia carterii.  See   frankincense extract.

Botox . The brand name of the form of botulinum toxin type A .When injected into specific area of the face, particularly of the forehead , it prevents movemont by partially and almost completely paralyzing the muscles of that area .Over 800,000 Botox treatments were administered in 2001 .Since 1973, Botox has been used by ophthalmologists to treat patients with disabling eye ticks , as well as to treat crossed eyes . It is also used by other medical specialists to treat spasmodic neck muscles, spasmodic laryngeal muscles ,multiple sclerosis , cerebral palsy (most recently migraine headaches ) .Sources : FDA Consumer mamazine , July-August 2002 , www.fda.gov

boxwood extract. Can have constricting properties, which makes it a skin irritant.

brewer’s yeast. A good antioxidant but can be a skin irritant.

broad spectrum. Meant to refer to a sunscreen’s ability to protect the skin from both UVA and UVB rays from the sun. This term is not regulated by the FDA, so a cosmetic can make this claim when the product does not actually provide adequate broad-spectrum protection.

bromelain. An enzyme found in pineapple. Like all enzymes (papain and other proteases), bromelain breaks down the connecting structure that holds surface skin cells together, which creates exfoliation but can also cause irritation.

bronopol. A preservative used in minuscule amounts in cosmetics to prevent contamination.

Bupleurum falcatum extract. Can have anti-inflammatory properties.

burdock root. Has been shown to have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits and is also a good antioxidant.

butcher’s broom extract. Has anti-inflammatory properties.

butcher’s broom. Can have anti-inflammatory properties for skin.

butyl acetate. A solvent used in nail polish and many other products.

butylene glycol.  See   propylene glycol.   See   

butyl methoxydibenzoymethane.  See   avobenzone.

TOP

C10-18 triglycerides.  See   glyceryl esters.  See   

C12-15 alkyl benzoate. Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics.

cabbage rose extract. A highly fragrant substance that can be a skin irritant.

caffeine. A substance with a high tannin content, which constricts skin and can cause irritation. When consumed in coffee, caffeine can be a strong diuretic, but there is no evidence that this effect can take place when caffeine is applied to skin (so it would not have the effect of "flushing" away fluid in tissues around the eyes that can accumulate as you sleep). I See  

calcium carbonate. Chalk; is used as an absorbent in cosmetics.

calendula extract Commonly known as marigolds; it has been shown to have antibacterial properties, but can be a skin irritant.  See  

Calophyllum tacamahaca. A plant oil that has emollient and anti-irritant properties.

camphor. Can cause skin irritation and dermatitis with repeated use.

cananga extract. A fragrance used in cosmetics; it can be a skin irritant, much like ylang-ylang.

candelilla wax. Derived from candelilla plants; used as a thickening agent and emollient to give products such as lipsticks or stick foundations their form.

caprylic/capric triglyceride Derived from coconut, and considered to be good emollient and thickening agents in cosmetics.   See  

capsicum oleoresin. A fatty resin derived from capsicum. It can be a skin irritant and should not be applied to abraded skin.  See   capsicum.

capsicum. Describes plants in the pepper family; substances derived from peppers can cause allergic reactions and skin irritation. Should not be applied to abraded skin.

caramel. A natural colouring agent.

carbomers Thickening agents used primarily to create gel-like formulations.

  See  

carbopol.  See   carbomer.

cardamom. A plant from the ginger family, used as fragrance in cosmetics. It can be a skin irritant and sensitizer.

carmine. Natural red colour that comes from the dried female cochineal beetle. It is sometimes used to colour lip gloss, lipsticks, and other cosmetics.

carnauba wax. A vegetable wax that has as a hard, firm texture, and is used in cosmetics as a substantial thickening agent.

carnitine. A carboxylic acid that may be erroneously labeled an amino acid (which it is not); it has been claimed to have miraculous properties (unsubstantiated) for enhancing the metabolization of fat when taken orally; however, there is no known benefit for skin when applied topically.

carnosic acid. Extracted from rosemary and considered to be a potent antioxidant.

carnosol acid.  See   carnosic acid.

carrageenan. A seaweed gum used in cosmetics as a thickening agent with water-binding properties.

carrot oil. An emollient plant oil similar to other nonvolatile plant oils.

casein. A substance derived from milk protein that has some water-binding properties for skin.

castor oil. A vegetable oil derived from the castor bean. It is used in cosmetics as an emollient, though its unique property is that when dry it forms a solid film that can have water-binding properties. It is rarely associated with skin irritation or allergic reactions but its feel on skin can be slightly sticky.

catalase. An enzyme that decomposes hydrogen peroxide into water and oxygen.

Caulerpa taxifolia extract.  See   algae.

cedarwood. A fragrant plant extract that can be a skin irritant.

celandine. An extract from the plant also known as Chelidonium majus that has antiviral properties.

cellulose. The main fiber component of plants. It is used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and to bind other ingredients together.

Centaurea cyanus.  See   cornflower.

Centella asiatica. An herb that may appear on labels as asiatic acid, hydrocotyl, or gotu kola. Has some antibacterial properties, but can also constrict skin and may be a sensitizer and skin irritant.

Cera alba. Beeswax, used as a thickening agent in cosmetics.

ceramides. Naturally occurring skin lipids (fats). When used in skin-care products, they are good water-binding agents.

ceresin. Derived from clay, it is a waxy ingredient used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. It can be sensitizing for some skin types.

ceteareth-20. A fatty alcohol that is used to thicken cosmetics and keep ingredients mixed together and stable.

cetearyl alcohol. A fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically.   See       

cetyl alcohol. A fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically. It is not an irritant and unrelated to SD alcohol or ethyl alcohol.  See   

chamomile. An herb that has been shown to have anti-irritant and soothing properties.

charcoal. Baked wood that is mainly carbon. One teaspoonful of Activated Charcoal USP has a surface area of more than 10,000 square feet, which gives charcoal unique absorption properties. It also can disinfect wounds.

chaulmoogra oil. Taken internally it was once the treatment for leprosy worldwide. Topically it is an emollient that can also cause skin irritation.

chitosan. A dietary fiber derived from chitin. Chitin is a type of polysaccharide that comes from the shells of shellfish, which means it has good water-binding properties on skin.

chlorella.  See   algae.

cholesterol. A phospholipid (a type of human or animal fat) used in cosmetics as a stabilizer, an emollient, and a water-binding agent.

choline. One of the B-complex vitamins that may be an antioxidant but probably has no effect on skin.

Chondrus crispus. A form of red seaweed.  See   carrageenan.

chrysanthemum extract. Can have anti-inflammatory benefit for skin.

Chrysanthemum parthenium extract.  See   feverfew extract.

cinnamon. Can be a skin irritant.

citric acid. Derived from citrus and used                                                  

 primarily to adjust the pH of products to

prevent them from being too alkaline.  See  

Citrullus colocynthis. Bitter apple; is considered to be a skin irritant.

clary oil. Used as fragrance, and can be a skin irritant or sensitizer.

Clematis vitalba extract. A plant extract with no known benefit to skin; it may be a skin sensitizer.

clove oil. A potent skin irritant when used repeatedly.

clover blossom. Contains eugenol, which can be a skin sensitizer and cause photosensitivity.

clover leaf oil.  See   clover blossom.

cobalt gluconate. An element found in trace amounts in tissues of the body. While cobalt plays a vital role in the formation of some body systems, there is no evidence it serves any purpose topically on skin, though it may be an antioxidant.

cocamide DEA and MEA.  See   alkyloamides.

cocamide DEA.  See   DEA.

cocamidopropyl betaine. Considered to be one of the more gentle surfactants (see surfactant) used in skin-care products.

cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine. A mild surfactant.

cocoa butter. An oil extracted from cocoa beans used as an emollient similar to the properties of all nonfragrant plant oils.

cocoglycerides.  See   glyceryl esters.

coconut oil. Has degreasing properties, which is why detergent cleansing agents are frequently derived from coconut oil.

coenzyme Q10. Can be an antioxidant in skin-care products.

Coleus barbatus. A member of the mint family; can be a skin irritant.

collagen. The major component of skin that gives it structure. Sun damage causes collagen in skin to deteriorate. Collagen can be derived from both plant and animal sources and is used in cosmetics as a good water-binding agent. Collagen in cosmetics, regardless of the source, has never been shown to have an effect on the collagen in skin.

colloidal oatmeal.  See   oatmeal.

colloidal silver. Refers to ground-up silver suspended in solution.  See   silver.

colostrum. The clear/cloudy "pre-milk" that female mammals secrete prior to producing milk. Colostrum contains immunoglobulins (disease resistance factors). While there is a small body of evidence indicating that adult consumption of colostrum may have disease-fighting potential, this is hardly substantiated and there is no known benefit when colostrum is applied topically to skin.

coltsfoot. According to The PDR Family Guide to Natural Medicines & Healing Therapies, coltsfoot has potential carcinogenic activity from its pyrrolizidine alkaloid content and is not recommended for repeated use.

comfrey extract. A plant source of allantoin, which gives this extract anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties.

copper gluconate. A mineral found in trace amounts in tissues of the body. While copper plays a vital role in the formation of many body systems, there is no evidence it serves any purpose topically on skin, though it may be a good antioxidant.

copper peptides. Substances that have a positive effect in wound healing, but despite claims, that does not translate to having an effect on wrinkles, as wrinkles are not wounds.

corallina officinalis extract.  See   algae.

coriander. Also known as cilantro; is used as a fragrant component and can be a potential skin irritant. It may also have some antibacterial and antifungal properties, but this has not been established for skin.

corn glycerides.  See   glyceryl esters.

corn oil. An emollient oil with similar properties to other nonvolatile plant oils.

cornflower. A plant source of a blue dye used in skin-care products, though there is minimal evidence it may have antibacterial properties.

cornstarch. A starch obtained from corn and used as an absorbent; it can cause contact dermatitis, drying of skin, and can cause breakouts.

Crataegus monogina extract. From hawthorn plants; can have antibacterial properties.  See   hawthorn extract.

cucumber extract. May have some anti-inflammatory properties but there is no real proof of this and the only notation seems to be anecdotal.

cyanocobalamin. Vitamin B12; has no known benefit when used topically on skin.

Cyanotis arachnoidea. A form of guar gum.

cyclam Colour en aldehyde. A synthetic fragrant component in products; it can be a skin irritant.

cyclomethicone. A silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone.   See  

Cynara scolymus.  See   artichoke extract.

cysteine. An amino acid.

cytochrome. A protein found in blood cells that, with the aid of enzymes, serves a vital function in the transfer of energy within cells. There are three types of cytochromes, indicated by A, B, or C, with cytochrome C being the most stable. However, because cytochromes require a complex process that is triggered by a sequence of other components in order to be effective in their function of cellular respiration, it serves no function alone on skin.

TOP

D&C. According to the FDA, D&C is an identification that indicates a colouring agent has been approved as safe in drug and cosmetics products but not in food.

dandelion. Can be particularly sensitizing for some atopic skin types but may also be irritating in general. It can also have water-binding and moisturising properties.

dandelion extract. May have some anti-inflammatory properties, but this information is anecdotal and not supported by research.

DEA. A foaming agent in shampoos that can form nitrosamines.

dead nettle extract. When taken orally it can be of help for benign prostatic hyperplasia. Topically it has astringent properties and can be a skin irritant with repeated use.

decyl glucoside. Used as a gentle detergent cleansing agent.

deionized/demineralized water. Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product’s stability and performance.

detergent cleansing agents.  See   surfactant.

dextran. A polysaccharide that has water-binding properties for skin.  See   also polysaccharide.

DHEA. According to HealthNews, a newsletter from the publishers of The New England Journal of Medicine, though there is a small body of research showing that oral intake of DHEA may be helpful, for many reasons it may have more risks than positives. It is, most likely, a potent "steroid hormone called dehydroepiandrosterone, a chemical cousin of testosterone and estrogen … Since DHEA is converted into testosterone, some women who take it grow body or facial hair and, if they are under age 50 or so, can stop menstruating. DHEA has also been shown to decrease levels of HDL (‘good’) cholesterol in women, and could increase the risk of heart disease." There is no research showing any positive or negative effects when it is used topically on skin.

diatomaceous earth. A light-coloured porous rock composed of skeletons of minute sea creatures called diatoms, used typically as an abrasive material in scrub products.

diazolidinyl urea. A formaldehyde-releasing preservative.

dihydroxyacetone. Reacts with amino acids found in the top layers of skin to create a shade of brown that takes place within two to six hours and builds colour depth with every reapplication.

dimethicone.  See   silicone.   See    

disodium lauraminopropionate. A mild surfactant (see surfactant).

disodium laureth sulfosuccinate. A mild surfactant.

DMDM hydantoin. Used with hydantoin to form a preservative. It slowly releases formaldehyde to give bactericidal properties to lotions.

DNA. The abbreviation for deoxyribonucleic acid, found in all cells. It is the primary component of genes—and genes are the way cells transmit hereditary characteristics. DNA is the basis for all genetic structure; its components include adenine (A), guanine (G), thymine (T), and cytosine (C). It is the mapping of these substances that is revealing the genetic code of human traits. The notion that putting DNA, RNA, or any of their components on skin can affect your own genetic structure is absolutely not possible.

dogwood. Can be an anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory on skin.

Dong quai. An herbal substance that was found to be no better than a placebo in treating hot flashes.

TOP

echinacea. There are several types of echinacea but only Echinacea purpurea and Echinacea pallida have been shown to have effectiveness. These may have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties on skin.

ecosapentanoic acid. Derived from salmon oil; it is a good emollient for skin.

EDTA. The abbreviation for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. It is a stabilizer used in cosmetics to prevent ingredients in a given formula from binding with trace elements that can exist in water and other ingredients; the technical term for this function is a chelating agent.

egg yolk. Egg yolk is mostly water and lipids (fats), especially cholesterol, which makes it a good emollient and water-binding agent for skin.

Elaeis guineesis. Palm oil, which has emollient properties for skin, the same as any nonvolatile plant oil.

elastin. The major component of skin that gives it flexibility. Sun damage causes elastin in skin to deteriorate. Elastin can be derived from both plant and animal sources and is used in cosmetics as a good water-binding agent. Elastin in cosmetics has never been shown to affect the elastin in skin.

emollients. Substances that prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like almond oil, or manufactured, like mineral oil.

Enteromorpha compressa extract. An extract from a form of green algae.  See   algae.